Climbing timeline updated

Updated today 11-Oct-10
Looking toward confirming Cho Oyu for April, 2011
sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 8-9 - Chimborazo

Coming off of a great ascent of Cotopaxi I was still able to squeeze in a trip to Chimborazo. At 6,310 metres (20,702 ft) It's the highest mountain in Ecuador and makes for a challenging climb. Leaving from the Whymper refuge located at 5000m we set out for the summit at 12:00am. Going for the north summit of 6,310m that means an altitude incrase of 1300m in one push. In my opinion at the limit of what one should do at this height. Climbing entirely in the dark we reached the summit in 6 hrs. Almost to the exact moment arriving on the summit the sun was rising. This allowed for amazing views of nearly all of Ecuadors large volcanoes. The weather throught the climb was perfect. Almost no wind, no less than 10 below C, and clear. The climb was great until the descent. Climbing the 1300m was tough enough, but what made it more challenging was the relentless incline. Once on the snow line above the ridge the incline seemed to go forever without any rest areas. The only break was after hitting the South summit you must go down slightly before meeting another steep pitch to the true summit (Whymper). However this wasn´t really easy due to breaking trail in fresh snow. I can realistically say it was the toughest single push I've done. Then going down, using nearly all my energy just to summit I had a tough time returning to the refuge. it took nearly 2.5 hrs. Longer than expected. I haven´t felt exhaustion like that on any previous descent. Regardless it was an amazing expierience to climb a beast of a mountain. Another great gem of Ecuador.
sP









View of Chimborazo. This was after the climb. I'll update later with our route details.










View of the Western face we climbed. If you look closely, centre-right, you can see our tracks (used up and down).










Exhausted on the summit. Cotopaxi seen in the background on the left.









Shadow cast by Chimborazo at sunrise. I had previously seen a picture just like this on Wikipedia. It was incredible to see with my own eyes.

Ecuador 2010 - day 5-6 Cotopaxi

Although I had originally planned Cotopaxi for Sept. 8-9, I met a group going a day earlier. Joined them and went directly to the refuge on Sept. 7. Climbed leaving 1am Wed. Sept. 8, summited around 7am. This one was especially great since I had attempted Cotopaxi last year but was unsuccesful. It was challenging and rewarding. Unfortunately the weather, much like Denali, was horrible at the top. Couldn´t even see the crator. In fact this was the coldest-windiest summit of the year. Great trip, will try to rest tomorrow, still have plans for Chimborazo on Friday.

sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 4

Went to the summit of Illinizas N. today. 5126m. Its nice to be able to park at 3900m. Moving 1200m vertical meters relatively quickly made it to the top in 3:20. +/- 2 hrs. less than last year. Interesting was the snow conditions today vs. the bare rock scramble of last year. This time was more fun. Rest day tomorrow, right on track for Cotopaxi on the 8th.

sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 2

Went to the top of Volcano Rucu Pinchincha today. at 4784m it was great for aclimatization. at 3 hrs. for the hike up and down I was happy, since the guide books call for anywhere from 5 hrs. and last year I did the same route in about 4 hrs. Reasonable weather but cloudy just as everytime I've been there. Taking it easy in Quito tomorrow, then off to Illanizas Norte to go above 5000m.
sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 1

Arrived in Quito last night. Its good to be at altitude again. Took the Teleferico to 4000m. There is a great view of Quito from there. then had a nice hike to 4500m. To the base of tomorrows scrambling. I´ll try to hike/scramble up Rucu Pinchincha tomorrow, will be nice for acclimatization.
sP

To Ecuador

Tomorrow I'll leave for Quito. Situated at a nice 2850m asl. it's the perfect start to a 9 day climbing trip. Similar to last year's visit, I'll use some of the local volcanoes to acclimatize. I'm now focused on trying Cotopaxi again, then if all goes well Chimborazo. Above is the plan. I'll try to update when possible. sP

Climbing timeline updated

Updated the time line. Still working on what is next. Trying to decide between Peru and Asia. Hopefully I'll have the chance to spend some time in Ecuador (Sept.) for training.
sP

Return from Denali

Well, the Denali trip is now over. Came down from the mountain June 4. Spent the evening in Talkeetna (nice town by the way), then returned to Houston June 5. This trip, like others, was a great experience.
Although it wasn't the highest altitude I've been it presented new challenges. First time for spending 20 days on a mountain, first time traveling on fixed lines, and first time setting up snow/ice camps building walls, kitchens, etc. Since the actual climbing days were probably only about half of the total it was challenging to stay healthy, motivated, and upbeat during weather and rest days.

We made the summit push on June 1 topping out at 18:10. Great feeling as always. Unfortunately the weather wasn't perfect. Not much of a view but exhilarating non the less.

While on the mountain I spent a lot of time thinking about home and how to proceed with work, training, life in general. Now at home I'm thinking heavily about the next training trips and then the next big expedition. Ecuador is in the plans for training and perhaps Peru next year to finally go for Alpamayo and Huascaran. or maybe it's time to go for the big 8000m? We'll see.

Also, we were able to collectively contribute $2,550 toward the Texas Children's Hospital fund raising. Thanks everyone for their support and contributions.

A few pics and video from the amazing Mt. McKinley (Denali) trip

Sweet view while flying in to the Kahiltna Glacier


Climbing up Squirrel Point - fun with full sleds

View of Mt. Foraker - Intimidating since it's rarely climbed


14,200' camp


Climbing the fixed lines up to 16,200' for a cache site


Climbing the ridge between 16,200' and 17,200' high camp


Summit

To Denali

Packed and ready. Leaving for Anchorage today. Will then catch a train to Talkeetna tomorrow morning. All in prep to start the climb on Monday May 17.
As usual, experiencing the roller coaster of excitement, anxiety, etc. Can't wait to start, but am aware of the challenges ahead.

I'm really thankful and proud to say we've raised $2475 for the Texas Children's Hospital so far. I'll keep the fundraising going through the climb.
Donation site - click here

Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) the expedition company I've joined, will be posting periodic AMS blog - click here

Other than that, I'll keep it short. Will really miss everyone who have been so supportive, colleagues, friends, family, and of course my beautiful wife Milu. See you in three weeks! sP

Going back to Ecuador

In Sept. of 2009 I went to Ecuador for some training activities.

See previous blogs for more info:
ecuador-trip
ecuador-acclimatization-day-1
good-days-bad-days-in-ecuador

The idea was to really see what my body can do going from sea level to 19,000' in 3 days. It was tough but overall a great experience. Included in the trip was a shot at Cotopaxi. This was important to go well above 15,000' and the summit was in fact secondary. But having turned around just short of the top, well hey, it's on the list.
So, going back this Sept. Hopefully weather will hold out late in the climbing season. A full moon trip on those Volcanoes is remarkable.
Planning to still enjoy the local acclimatization hikes such as Rucu Pinchinca and Illanizas. Perhaps may even have time and energy enough to try Cayambe or Chimborazo (Ecuador's highest peak)
It's still months away, and have Denali just around the corner, but can't stop thinking about it. Love the country, and so much hiking/climbing only hrs. from Quito.


sP

Denali climbing timeline

Below is the timeline we will try to follow during the Denali climb. Pending weather, conditions, etc. may adjust camps. In addition have a few summit days in reserve. Nearly one month away! sP

Climbing timeline updated

Updated the time line. Denali is next. We'll see from there. Hopefully I'll have the chance to spend some time in Ecuador and Peru.
sP

Denali climb and Donations to the Texas Children's hospital

Well, after some time, I've been able to work with the Texas Children's hospital in order to raise funds for their pediatric needs. This in conjunction with my efforts on Denali.
Anyone can donate prior to the upcoming Denali climb directly to the hospital. 100% of any donations go directly to them.

Last June we were able to raise nearly $3000 for the Alberta Children's hospital in my home town of Calgary. This trip I wanted to do something locally for friends and family in Texas.
It's for a great cause and really something you can be proud to participate in.

click the Texas Children's Hospital icon on the right of this blog page or the Donate Now link on the main page.

I really appreciate any support.

Sincere Thanks,
Sp

Return from Aconcagua

Just returned to Houston. What a great trip! Aconcagua was amazing. Mendoza was amazing.
The climb went well for the most part. But unfortunately our team had some bad luck. out of 11 only 3 were able to summit. Myself and two from Spain. 3 suffered from HAPE and 5 turned around summit day. Which was interesting and surprising as everyone was strong. It happened fast and was devastating to the team moral.
There were points (Independencia) at which I was also debating a turn around, but I think previous experience on Cotopaxi was helpful to continue.
Overall, another great time