To deal with the overwhelming amount of things to possibly contain, I’ve tried to summarize using the following 4 parts:
1. Preparation
2. Logistics
3. The climb in General
4. Afterward
1. Preparation
During any of my previous expeditions the mountain time never exceeded 21 days. I knew the intended 40 for Cho Oyu was going to be new and challenging. With a different style of climbing, Himalayan trips offered the advantage of utilizing Yaks to transport thousands of pounds of equipment to the home away from home – Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Ours located at (5700m/18,300’). This was a luxury I didn’t full utilize. Still in Denali mode I packed as if I would have to haul it all from the beginning. With a stream lined check list I managed to keep under 150 items (I know sounds like a lot) but next time it will be different. I fully intend to enjoy some of the small/simple but great ideas I’d seen others implement such as a tent carpet, Kindle for reading, warm weather camp boots, variety of snacks, and shampoo,. Doesn’t sound too tough on the mountain with such things do it? Well I can say however I was well prepared with regards to climbing equipment and clothing. Practice has proven to never leave home without the essentials such as Patagonia base layers, Feathered Friends down, and Apple devices.
Airlines, now a days can also complicate a climbers equipment planning. Having a weight restriction of 2 x 50 lbs. of check in baggage I was able to cram everything into 2 x 49.5 duffels. As this trip was fully intended as a learning experience. Learning was definitely covered during my equipment dealings. I did pretty well overall and by taking home some good trips will be really set next year.
2. Logistics
Since our plan was to climb on the Tibetan/Chinese side of the mountain and the Team (Made up of 11 climbers, 2 guides, 9 Sherpas, 1 base camp manager, and 2 cooks) was pre-defined to depart out of Kathmandu Nepal, the travel from Kathmandu to Advanced base camp was an experience on it’s own. Arriving in Kathmandu on Aug. 21, we set out for Tibet on Aug. 23. From there a plan of efficient travel by bus was incorporated also to additionally included body acclimatization necessity.
Kodari (the border town between Nepal and China) was the first stop in order to enter China. That evening we rested at Zhangmu (2300m/7,545’). From Zhangmu made it to Nyalam (3750m/12,300’) and then on to Tingri (4346m/14,260’). After Tingri we made our last bus ride to Cho Oyu’s Chinese Base Camp (4910m/16,100’). Driving through the Himalayas reaching the Tibetan plateau, the landscape changes in wider, green and sandy valleys with some of the world’s highest passes that are accessible by car. Then it was on foot to Interim Camp (5360m/17,585’) and finally ABC (5700m18,300’). That process took about 12 days. Taking various rest and acclimatization hiking days. ABC is generally used a the main base which climbers will remain for the body to acclimatize while at a moderate height of living in which one can still eat, sleep, and recover well. Utilizing this to rotate up to the higher camps periodically then back down for rest. Cho Oyu ABC is actually quite high and really on the border of where the body will ok. Upon arriving most will experience some heavy breathing and some persons do experience serious Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Once staying there off and on for a month or more it becomes relatively comfortable.
3. The climb in General
Although we had a plan, and stayed with it well until ABC, that’s really where things normally change. A big learning for me. I’d been mainly lucky to stay basically stay on schedule for most of my previous shorter climbs. But the Himalayas is a completely different story. Having the team break up into smaller groups, adjusting due to weather, sickness, resources, etc. is completely normal. This is what we did. I’ll be revising the original plan and will re-post on this blog to outline our exact movement. However to summarize we did actually split team members, had some who experienced ailments, had weather delays, and even some missing information regarding who and how required fixed lines would actually be placed. Despite that we did well. In fact one of the truly strongest teams I’d ever climbed with. Regarding health and motivation everyone did really well. And the Sherpas; unbelievable is the only word I can use. Also, we were somewhat diverse with regards to experience, fitness, and strength levels but I feel were somehow quite compatible with the chances we each had to summit overall. It was quite interesting that during our summit push strategy had to be implemented to accommodate the amount of persons attempting. Usually, to my understanding, it is uncommon to have 50% of a team going for the summit. In short, and will be further explained by the revised timeline to be posted, we all made our camp 1 and camp 2 (our high point of 7000m/23,000’) rotations, then went for the summit push on Aug. 25. Arriving at camp 1 we immediately recognized high winds. This high wind and high amounts of snow made a challenging and risky avalanche condition. We waited out part of the next day at camp 1 and decided to head down. With little expectation of an immediate weather change all of our climbers but two left the mountain. Now 35 days into the expedition Those two who stayed later tried again for the summit and unfortunately again turned around, this time just above camp 2. But a great effort. During our summit push we did see 4 Korean climbers coming down who were the first and only to summit the mountain before we left. Reports have indicated they were strong and pushed through heavy snow and even the avalanche risk. The next day one of their team members tried alone and was caught in an avalanche. Fortunately survived without harm. I’ve since read that some persons did summit after waiting out the weather. Some summits occurred as late as Oct. 12. Perhaps later? Congrats to all of them, good job and well done!
Leaving the mountain was one of the hardest things I've done since mountaineering. Trying to decide if there was any chance of a summit by staying longer (but how long?) and knowing I was still strong was a personal dilemma when deciding to leave. This time I consider myself inexperienced, I’ve definitely learned a lot about the Himalayas and how to accommodate the changes, delays, and challenges. Despite thinking in the back of my mind what it could have been if I had stayed still doesn’t out way the support I have of our guides and teams decision to abandon our summit bid due to avalanche risk. A decision which guaranteed I’m here writing this today. Waiting longer to try again sounds easy while at my cozy home, but dealing with additional days out, the unknown of even getting another chance, energy require/available, not commitments at home in time, etc. is actually tough. however with experience from this trip and a better planned buffer of time in which to stay and wait will be a part of any next trip.
4. Afterward
Quite simply put this was the best trip of my climbing life. Unbelievably beautiful places seen, amazing people met along the way, and a large amount of experience gained. So I didn’t summit this one. I’m now ok with that. I and the team put forth a huge effort. We spent our cold nights out, we put in the work. We learned. Many of us reach our highest point ever. That is success.
Of course I’m like everyone else, wondering how things could have been different. What is it like on the top? Not completing a goal like this is not something I’ll take lying down. I’m now planning to go back next year. More prepared, more fit, more experienced, more excited. Maybe I won’t summit next time either. Although I’ll be giving it one heck of a shot.
I can’t believe the overwhelming support I received from my boss, family, co-workers and friends. No single person, other than myself, has ever said a negative comment about not making the summit. Not to be too corny or cliche but I’ve that is exactly what it is all about. Seeing those places, meeting those people, and coming home to those who matter. The funny thing is that isn’t done from the summit. It’s done while going there and when returning back safely.
