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Cho Oyu trip summary 16-Oct-11

2011-10-16T17:09:00.000-07:00

A bit late but I’ve finally put together some information regarding the last climb on Cho Oyu. As many of you know I went to Cho Oyu to attempt my first 8000m peak. With previous experience on Denali (6200m/20,335’) and Aconcagua (6968m/22,841) I felt ready. Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at (8,201m/26,906’) above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan.

To deal with the overwhelming amount of things to possibly contain, I’ve tried to summarize using the following 4 parts:

1. Preparation
2. Logistics
3. The climb in General
4. Afterward

1. Preparation

During any of my previous expeditions the mountain time never exceeded 21 days. I knew the intended 40 for Cho Oyu was going to be new and challenging. With a different style of climbing, Himalayan trips offered the advantage of utilizing Yaks to transport thousands of pounds of equipment to the home away from home – Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Ours located at (5700m/18,300’). This was a luxury I didn’t full utilize. Still in Denali mode I packed as if I would have to haul it all from the beginning. With a stream lined check list I managed to keep under 150 items (I know sounds like a lot) but next time it will be different. I fully intend to enjoy some of the small/simple but great ideas I’d seen others implement such as a tent carpet, Kindle for reading, warm weather camp boots, variety of snacks, and shampoo,. Doesn’t sound too tough on the mountain with such things do it? Well I can say however I was well prepared with regards to climbing equipment and clothing. Practice has proven to never leave home without the essentials such as Patagonia base layers, Feathered Friends down, and Apple devices.
Airlines, now a days can also complicate a climbers equipment planning. Having a weight restriction of 2 x 50 lbs. of check in baggage I was able to cram everything into 2 x 49.5 duffels. As this trip was fully intended as a learning experience. Learning was definitely covered during my equipment dealings. I did pretty well overall and by taking home some good trips will be really set next year.

2. Logistics

Since our plan was to climb on the Tibetan/Chinese side of the mountain and the Team (Made up of 11 climbers, 2 guides, 9 Sherpas, 1 base camp manager, and 2 cooks) was pre-defined to depart out of Kathmandu Nepal, the travel from Kathmandu to Advanced base camp was an experience on it’s own. Arriving in Kathmandu on Aug. 21, we set out for Tibet on Aug. 23. From there a plan of efficient travel by bus was incorporated also to additionally included body acclimatization necessity.
Kodari (the border town between Nepal and China) was the first stop in order to enter China. That evening we rested at Zhangmu (2300m/7,545’). From Zhangmu made it to Nyalam (3750m/12,300’) and then on to Tingri (4346m/14,260’). After Tingri we made our last bus ride to Cho Oyu’s Chinese Base Camp (4910m/16,100’). Driving through the Himalayas reaching the Tibetan plateau, the landscape changes in wider, green and sandy valleys with some of the world’s highest passes that are accessible by car. Then it was on foot to Interim Camp (5360m/17,585’) and finally ABC (5700m18,300’). That process took about 12 days. Taking various rest and acclimatization hiking days. ABC is generally used a the main base which climbers will remain for the body to acclimatize while at a moderate height of living in which one can still eat, sleep, and recover well. Utilizing this to rotate up to the higher camps periodically then back down for rest. Cho Oyu ABC is actually quite high and really on the border of where the body will ok. Upon arriving most will experience some heavy breathing and some persons do experience serious Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Once staying there off and on for a month or more it becomes relatively comfortable.

3. The climb in General

Although we had a plan, and stayed with it well until ABC, that’s really where things normally change. A big learning for me. I’d been mainly lucky to stay basically stay on schedule for most of my previous shorter climbs. But the Himalayas is a completely different story. Having the team break up into smaller groups, adjusting due to weather, sickness, resources, etc. is completely normal. This is what we did. I’ll be revising the original plan and will re-post on this blog to outline our exact movement. However to summarize we did actually split team members, had some who experienced ailments, had weather delays, and even some missing information regarding who and how required fixed lines would actually be placed. Despite that we did well. In fact one of the truly strongest teams I’d ever climbed with. Regarding health and motivation everyone did really well. And the Sherpas; unbelievable is the only word I can use. Also, we were somewhat diverse with regards to experience, fitness, and strength levels but I feel were somehow quite compatible with the chances we each had to summit overall. It was quite interesting that during our summit push strategy had to be implemented to accommodate the amount of persons attempting. Usually, to my understanding, it is uncommon to have 50% of a team going for the summit. In short, and will be further explained by the revised timeline to be posted, we all made our camp 1 and camp 2 (our high point of 7000m/23,000’) rotations, then went for the summit push on Aug. 25. Arriving at camp 1 we immediately recognized high winds. This high wind and high amounts of snow made a challenging and risky avalanche condition. We waited out part of the next day at camp 1 and decided to head down. With little expectation of an immediate weather change all of our climbers but two left the mountain. Now 35 days into the expedition Those two who stayed later tried again for the summit and unfortunately again turned around, this time just above camp 2. But a great effort. During our summit push we did see 4 Korean climbers coming down who were the first and only to summit the mountain before we left. Reports have indicated they were strong and pushed through heavy snow and even the avalanche risk. The next day one of their team members tried alone and was caught in an avalanche. Fortunately survived without harm. I’ve since read that some persons did summit after waiting out the weather. Some summits occurred as late as Oct. 12. Perhaps later? Congrats to all of them, good job and well done!
Leaving the mountain was one of the hardest things I've done since mountaineering. Trying to decide if there was any chance of a summit by staying longer (but how long?) and knowing I was still strong was a personal dilemma when deciding to leave. This time I consider myself inexperienced, I’ve definitely learned a lot about the Himalayas and how to accommodate the changes, delays, and challenges. Despite thinking in the back of my mind what it could have been if I had stayed still doesn’t out way the support I have of our guides and teams decision to abandon our summit bid due to avalanche risk. A decision which guaranteed I’m here writing this today. Waiting longer to try again sounds easy while at my cozy home, but dealing with additional days out, the unknown of even getting another chance, energy require/available, not commitments at home in time, etc. is actually tough. however with experience from this trip and a better planned buffer of time in which to stay and wait will be a part of any next trip.

4. Afterward

Quite simply put this was the best trip of my climbing life. Unbelievably beautiful places seen, amazing people met along the way, and a large amount of experience gained. So I didn’t summit this one. I’m now ok with that. I and the team put forth a huge effort. We spent our cold nights out, we put in the work. We learned. Many of us reach our highest point ever. That is success.

Of course I’m like everyone else, wondering how things could have been different. What is it like on the top? Not completing a goal like this is not something I’ll take lying down. I’m now planning to go back next year. More prepared, more fit, more experienced, more excited. Maybe I won’t summit next time either. Although I’ll be giving it one heck of a shot.

I can’t believe the overwhelming support I received from my boss, family, co-workers and friends. No single person, other than myself, has ever said a negative comment about not making the summit. Not to be too corny or cliche but I’ve that is exactly what it is all about. Seeing those places, meeting those people, and coming home to those who matter. The funny thing is that isn’t done from the summit. It’s done while going there and when returning back safely.

A final picture: Cho Oyu Climbers above the Ice Cliff, on the way to Camp 2.

2011-09-25T13:00:00.000-07:00

Final Update

2011-09-25T12:44:00.001-07:00

So, my hubby and his expedition, unfortunately, will not be summiting due to the strong winds and generally bad weather (hey, they've also had an earthquake and avalanches). They've reached their highest point at 23,000 feet. I wanted to thank everyone that has donated to the Texas Children's Hospital. We have raised $8,900 so far! Please continue to spread the word so that we can make the $10K mark! I just wanna say that I'm so proud of my bear!! I know he's disappointed, having come this close, but I am so happy he's coming home!! His dedication and commitment are unlike anyone else's that I've ever known and I couldn't be prouder!

Shawn and his teammates are ready for the summit !!

2011-09-22T21:10:00.000-07:00

Shawn and his teammates are ready for the summit scheduled for Tuesday at 9 am (Nepal time), which is Monday at 10 pm (our time). No more coming down the mtn to acclimatize, they will go straight to camp 2 then camp 3. This is the real deal! I want my bear back home safe and sound...

Cho Oyu Climbers Feel Earthquake!!!!!

2011-09-20T18:10:00.000-07:00

Cho Oyu Climbers Feel Earthquake!!!!!
September 18, 2011

"Ang Jangbu reports that the climbers felt the earthquake today that hit northeastern India (centered in Sikkim). He says the ground shook for some time, and there were a few avalanches triggered on some of the various slopes around the area, but no ill effects for climbers on Cho Oyu."

I'm glad Shawn and his teammates are OK!!! Please pray that there are no more avalanches!!!!

Shawn has reached 22,000 Feet!

2011-09-19T06:13:00.001-07:00

Update from Shawn close to Camp 2!

2011-09-15T20:33:00.000-07:00

Shawn close to Camp 2 at around 22,000 FT! Didn't really reach b/c of the weather. Might have to stay a few more days to reach the summit... :(

Shawn is at Camp One at 22,000!

2011-09-07T18:50:00.001-07:00

Shawn is on his way to Base camp in 3 days!

2011-08-29T19:29:00.000-07:00

Shawn is at Base Camp at 15000 feet right now, spending three nights at BC (acclimatization hiking each day) before moving up to IC (Interim Camp) on the 31st and to Advanced Base Camp at over 18000 feet on September 1st.

Shawn is at Base Camp and will start his climb!

2011-08-27T21:45:00.000-07:00

Shawn is in Tibet!!

2011-08-25T09:01:00.000-07:00

From the IMG Blog: "Cho Oyu team members..., and a couple sherpas who are staying back with them, will do further acclimatization hiking tomorrow up the nearby ridges that overlook Nyalam. The plan for the team will be to go on to Tingri the following day. Because Tibet is so high, we want to make sure everyone is well acclimatized before going to the Base Camps."

Shawn called me from Tibet, he is doing fine w/ the acclimatization!

Shawn in Nepal!!

2011-08-23T20:50:00.000-07:00

Departure for Cho Oyu

2011-08-18T19:32:00.000-07:00

All packed and ready. Seems like I must have inventoried over 150 items numerous times over.
With equipment set, feeling good, in shape, it's time to leave.
Tomorrow I take the long journey to Nepal. First time there so quite excited about that.

Leaving those at home is tough. I have now such a great supporting group of people in my life. From my wife, friends, co-workers, and bosses I really appreciate them all.

the next 40 days present numerous challenges, but as always they will be tackled one day at a time. Right now the first step is to arrive in Kathmandu.

I hope the communications methods setup for the trip work. If so I should be able to contact Milu periodically to update this blog. Additionally the Spot GPS tracking on the right of this page should work to display the last 7 days of tracking data and a couple custom messages

International Mountain Guides (IMG) will also be blogging periodically on their site. Can be found:
http://www.mountainguides.com/wordpress/

sP

Cho Oyu update

2011-06-28T19:59:00.001-07:00

Attached is the climbing day by day chart which was to be used in April. I'll be updating soon with one for Aug. Hopefully this still allows to summit within 40 days. As usual may fluctuate, but good to have a plan.

I'm scheduled to leave Houston ---> Newark ---> Delhi India ---> Kathmandu on Aug 19. A long trip but at least there is an overnight in Delhi.

Cho Oyu is the sixth highest peak in the world. Said to be a good introduction climbing into the 8000m world. There are only 14 mountains in the world above 8000m.

I've started organizing and preparing equipment.
Training is going well.

sP

Ecuador May, 2011 - Cayambe

2011-05-20T18:56:00.000-07:00

Just returned from today´s climb - Cayambe. At 5790m it is Ecuador´s third highest.
Just getting to the refuge is interesting. it´s about 45min to 1 hr. to the town of Cayambe from Quito. Then about 2 hrs. to the refuge which you must endure the less than idea road conditions. a 4 x 4 vehicle is mandatory. But an interesting trip traveling through the indigenous farmlands. Amazing green with the massive presence of Cayambe moutain.

We left the refuge around 1 am, at the summit by 6:30
The climb was moderate to start then became more difficult toward the last few hundred meters navigating around crevasses and during some steeper sections.
Once again bad luck at a foggy summit. Couldn´t see much until going down when everything cleared. At that time beautiful scenery including Antisana and Cotopaxi.
Another great climb on one of Ecuador´s amazing volcanoes.

Ecuador May, 2011 - Ilinizas N.

2011-05-17T15:38:00.000-07:00

Climbed Ilinizas N. today. This was the third time to summit this peak, but first with good weather. Blue sky and sun. Had amazing views of Cotopaxi and Ilinizas South. It was nice to go above 5000m. Enjoyable day.
Looking forward to a rest day tomorrow.

Ecuador May, 2011 - Second Acclimatization hike complete

2011-05-16T15:43:00.000-07:00

Had a good day scrambling up Rumiñaui today. It was actually more of a scramble than I thought by taking the direct South summit route. Weather was ok until a storm rolled in behind us during the descent. completely covered the peak we had just climbed with white.
On to Illinizas N. tomorrow.

Ecuador May, 2011 - First Acclimatization hike complete

2011-05-15T07:09:00.000-07:00

Went to Rucu Pinchincha once again for yestarday´s acclimatization hike.
This is the third time I´ve been to the 4696m / 150273 ft. summit. It´s great to get out of the city and enjoy the day on this easy going hike. There is a bit of scrambling toward the summit which adds fun. Total round trip of 5 hrs. Weather was ok, a lot of fog and a bit of rain.

The spot device seems to be working well here. you can view the tracking at:
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces /viewspots.jsp?glId=0oAWHSW9x7nDQjqA7MQI2xn4QqZEJiRqV

Planning to go on another hike tomorrow (Rumiñaui, another just for acclimatizing).
This should keep me right on schedule to climb Illianizas N. on Tuesday.

More Ecuador Climbing May 12, 2011

2011-04-03T20:06:00.001-07:00

Plans for Ecuador this May are now in place. This will be the third trip to this great country to enjoy some of the volcano climbing it has to offer. There are 10 mountains in Ecuador above 5000m (16,400'). To date I've climbing 3 of them and plan to try two new ones on this trip. It's an excellent place to sharpen skills and gain some altitude training for the upcoming Cho Oyu trip.

The acclimatization program will be similar to before. Enjoying the high altitude city of Quito, hiking Rucu Pinchincha and climbing Illinizas Norte for the 3rd time.
New challenges include Cayambe and Antisana.
Antisana is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in Ecuador with amazing views of surrounding volcanoes.
As an alternate Illianizas Sur is still on the list and could be substituted if required.

The Plan:

Cayambe (5790m)

Antisana (5753m)

Cho Oyu Update - now Aug/Sept. 2011

2011-02-22T18:11:00.001-08:00

Well, slight changes. Turns out there may be potential ravel and permit issues brewing in Tibet during the April/May climbing season.

Read more here:
Tibet Travel advisory

So, we have now planned to adjust by re-scheduling for what seems to be a much more solid change of acquiring permits and climbing during the August/September season.

A bit of a downer as the preparation for April was going so well. Regardless the training will continue and I'll be even that much more prepared in the fall.

Attached is the climbing day by day chart which was to be used in April. I'll be updating soon with one for Aug. Hopefully this still allows to summit within 40 days. As usual may fluctuate, but good to have a plan.

I'm scheduled to leave Houston ---> Newark ---> Delhi India ---> Kathmandu on Aug 19. A long trip but at least there is an overnight in Delhi.

Cho Oyu is the sixth highest peak in the world. Said to be a good introduction climbing into the 8000m world. There are only 14 mountains in the world above 8000m.

I'll be spending the next months preparing equipment and training. Feeling really good about the training right now. Will be increasing the intensity. can't wait!
sP

Climbing timeline updated

2010-10-11T08:21:00.000-07:00

Updated today 11-Oct-10
Looking toward confirming Cho Oyu for April, 2011
sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 8-9 - Chimborazo

2010-09-11T14:37:00.000-07:00

Coming off of a great ascent of Cotopaxi I was still able to squeeze in a trip to Chimborazo. At 6,310 metres (20,702 ft) It's the highest mountain in Ecuador and makes for a challenging climb. Leaving from the Whymper refuge located at 5000m we set out for the summit at 12:00am. Going for the north summit of 6,310m that means an altitude incrase of 1300m in one push. In my opinion at the limit of what one should do at this height. Climbing entirely in the dark we reached the summit in 6 hrs. Almost to the exact moment arriving on the summit the sun was rising. This allowed for amazing views of nearly all of Ecuadors large volcanoes. The weather throught the climb was perfect. Almost no wind, no less than 10 below C, and clear. The climb was great until the descent. Climbing the 1300m was tough enough, but what made it more challenging was the relentless incline. Once on the snow line above the ridge the incline seemed to go forever without any rest areas. The only break was after hitting the South summit you must go down slightly before meeting another steep pitch to the true summit (Whymper). However this wasn´t really easy due to breaking trail in fresh snow. I can realistically say it was the toughest single push I've done. Then going down, using nearly all my energy just to summit I had a tough time returning to the refuge. it took nearly 2.5 hrs. Longer than expected. I haven´t felt exhaustion like that on any previous descent. Regardless it was an amazing expierience to climb a beast of a mountain. Another great gem of Ecuador.
sP

View of Chimborazo. This was after the climb. I'll update later with our route details.

View of the Western face we climbed. If you look closely, centre-right, you can see our tracks (used up and down).

Exhausted on the summit. Cotopaxi seen in the background on the left.

Shadow cast by Chimborazo at sunrise. I had previously seen a picture just like this on Wikipedia. It was incredible to see with my own eyes.

Ecuador 2010 - day 5-6 Cotopaxi

2010-09-08T12:34:00.000-07:00

Although I had originally planned Cotopaxi for Sept. 8-9, I met a group going a day earlier. Joined them and went directly to the refuge on Sept. 7. Climbed leaving 1am Wed. Sept. 8, summited around 7am. This one was especially great since I had attempted Cotopaxi last year but was unsuccesful. It was challenging and rewarding. Unfortunately the weather, much like Denali, was horrible at the top. Couldn´t even see the crator. In fact this was the coldest-windiest summit of the year. Great trip, will try to rest tomorrow, still have plans for Chimborazo on Friday.

Ecuador 2010 - day 4

2010-09-06T20:41:00.000-07:00

Went to the summit of Illinizas N. today. 5126m. Its nice to be able to park at 3900m. Moving 1200m vertical meters relatively quickly made it to the top in 3:20. +/- 2 hrs. less than last year. Interesting was the snow conditions today vs. the bare rock scramble of last year. This time was more fun. Rest day tomorrow, right on track for Cotopaxi on the 8th.

Ecuador 2010 - day 2

2010-09-04T14:36:00.000-07:00

Went to the top of Volcano Rucu Pinchincha today. at 4784m it was great for aclimatization. at 3 hrs. for the hike up and down I was happy, since the guide books call for anywhere from 5 hrs. and last year I did the same route in about 4 hrs. Reasonable weather but cloudy just as everytime I've been there. Taking it easy in Quito tomorrow, then off to Illanizas Norte to go above 5000m.
sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 1

2010-09-03T14:56:00.000-07:00

Arrived in Quito last night. Its good to be at altitude again. Took the Teleferico to 4000m. There is a great view of Quito from there. then had a nice hike to 4500m. To the base of tomorrows scrambling. I´ll try to hike/scramble up Rucu Pinchincha tomorrow, will be nice for acclimatization.
sP

To Ecuador

2010-09-01T19:10:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow I'll leave for Quito. Situated at a nice 2850m asl. it's the perfect start to a 9 day climbing trip. Similar to last year's visit, I'll use some of the local volcanoes to acclimatize. I'm now focused on trying Cotopaxi again, then if all goes well Chimborazo. Above is the plan. I'll try to update when possible. sP

Climbing timeline updated

2010-06-24T11:41:00.000-07:00

Updated the time line. Still working on what is next. Trying to decide between Peru and Asia. Hopefully I'll have the chance to spend some time in Ecuador (Sept.) for training.
sP

Return from Denali

2010-06-09T18:04:00.001-07:00

Well, the Denali trip is now over. Came down from the mountain June 4. Spent the evening in Talkeetna (nice town by the way), then returned to Houston June 5. This trip, like others, was a great experience.
Although it wasn't the highest altitude I've been it presented new challenges. First time for spending 20 days on a mountain, first time traveling on fixed lines, and first time setting up snow/ice camps building walls, kitchens, etc. Since the actual climbing days were probably only about half of the total it was challenging to stay healthy, motivated, and upbeat during weather and rest days.

We made the summit push on June 1 topping out at 18:10. Great feeling as always. Unfortunately the weather wasn't perfect. Not much of a view but exhilarating non the less.

While on the mountain I spent a lot of time thinking about home and how to proceed with work, training, life in general. Now at home I'm thinking heavily about the next training trips and then the next big expedition. Ecuador is in the plans for training and perhaps Peru next year to finally go for Alpamayo and Huascaran. or maybe it's time to go for the big 8000m? We'll see.

Also, we were able to collectively contribute $2,550 toward the Texas Children's Hospital fund raising. Thanks everyone for their support and contributions.

A few pics and video from the amazing Mt. McKinley (Denali) trip

Sweet view while flying in to the Kahiltna Glacier

Climbing up Squirrel Point - fun with full sleds

View of Mt. Foraker - Intimidating since it's rarely climbed

14,200' camp

Climbing the fixed lines up to 16,200' for a cache site

Climbing the ridge between 16,200' and 17,200' high camp

Summit

To Denali

2010-05-15T09:19:00.000-07:00

Packed and ready. Leaving for Anchorage today. Will then catch a train to Talkeetna tomorrow morning. All in prep to start the climb on Monday May 17.
As usual, experiencing the roller coaster of excitement, anxiety, etc. Can't wait to start, but am aware of the challenges ahead.

I'm really thankful and proud to say we've raised $2475 for the Texas Children's Hospital so far. I'll keep the fundraising going through the climb.
Donation site - click here

Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) the expedition company I've joined, will be posting periodic AMS blog - click here

Other than that, I'll keep it short. Will really miss everyone who have been so supportive, colleagues, friends, family, and of course my beautiful wife Milu. See you in three weeks! sP

Going back to Ecuador

2010-04-18T16:55:00.001-07:00

In Sept. of 2009 I went to Ecuador for some training activities.

See previous blogs for more info:
ecuador-trip
ecuador-acclimatization-day-1
good-days-bad-days-in-ecuador

The idea was to really see what my body can do going from sea level to 19,000' in 3 days. It was tough but overall a great experience. Included in the trip was a shot at Cotopaxi. This was important to go well above 15,000' and the summit was in fact secondary. But having turned around just short of the top, well hey, it's on the list.
So, going back this Sept. Hopefully weather will hold out late in the climbing season. A full moon trip on those Volcanoes is remarkable.
Planning to still enjoy the local acclimatization hikes such as Rucu Pinchinca and Illanizas. Perhaps may even have time and energy enough to try Cayambe or Chimborazo (Ecuador's highest peak)
It's still months away, and have Denali just around the corner, but can't stop thinking about it. Love the country, and so much hiking/climbing only hrs. from Quito.

sP

Denali climbing timeline

2010-04-12T20:36:00.001-07:00

Below is the timeline we will try to follow during the Denali climb. Pending weather, conditions, etc. may adjust camps. In addition have a few summit days in reserve. Nearly one month away! sP

Climbing timeline updated

2010-02-21T17:58:00.000-08:00

Updated the time line. Denali is next. We'll see from there. Hopefully I'll have the chance to spend some time in Ecuador and Peru.
sP

Denali climb and Donations to the Texas Children's hospital

2010-02-02T18:55:00.000-08:00

Well, after some time, I've been able to work with the Texas Children's hospital in order to raise funds for their pediatric needs. This in conjunction with my efforts on Denali.
Anyone can donate prior to the upcoming Denali climb directly to the hospital. 100% of any donations go directly to them.

Last June we were able to raise nearly $3000 for the Alberta Children's hospital in my home town of Calgary. This trip I wanted to do something locally for friends and family in Texas.
It's for a great cause and really something you can be proud to participate in.

click the Texas Children's Hospital icon on the right of this blog page or the Donate Now link on the main page.

I really appreciate any support.

Sincere Thanks,
Sp

Return from Aconcagua

2010-01-10T10:01:00.000-08:00

Just returned to Houston. What a great trip! Aconcagua was amazing. Mendoza was amazing.
The climb went well for the most part. But unfortunately our team had some bad luck. out of 11 only 3 were able to summit. Myself and two from Spain. 3 suffered from HAPE and 5 turned around summit day. Which was interesting and surprising as everyone was strong. It happened fast and was devastating to the team moral.
There were points (Independencia) at which I was also debating a turn around, but I think previous experience on Cotopaxi was helpful to continue.
Overall, another great time

Aconcagua departure

2009-12-20T10:02:00.000-08:00

Packed and ready
Leaving tonight, arriving in Mendoza by 1900 hrs. Monday Dec. 21
sP

1 week to Aconcagua

2009-12-14T11:34:00.000-08:00

Just a week away, nearly all set for Argentina. I'll leave on Sunday Dec. 20. Should start the approach on Dec. 22. Here's a look at the proposed acclimatization schedule. Will hopefully put us on top by Jan. 4 sP

Denali and the Death Race

2009-11-09T19:03:00.000-08:00

Aconcagua is now nearly a month away. I'm pretty excited, nervous, etc.
Since I'll have plenty of time to think up there, what better time to plan for next year's fun.
So far I have now committed to Mt. McKinley (Denali) May 17 and an interesting adventure race (a crazy one) called the death race. You can learn more about it at www.youmaydie.com
Denali is set, just an application, deposit, medical, and good to go.
For the Death race however I had to create a short video outlining my training. It doesn't really capture everything, in fact not even close, but here it is.
Andy, I hope it works for ya.
sP

Good days - Bad days in Ecuador

2009-09-07T16:28:00.000-07:00

Well, the Ecuador trip is now concluding. Day 2 of the acclimatization plan went well. We climbed Illinizas N. on Saturday. It was great, a relatively short trip to 5100m. All of which I felt great.
Started the Cotopaxi climb on Sunday. Went to the refuge at 4800m in the afternoon to rest until midnight. Still feeling good we set of a 1:00 am. The wind from the time we arrived at the refuge was relentless. sudden gusts capable of knocking one over. This also starting making things pretty cold. The entire time in Ecuador right up until about 5300m on Cotopaxi I was feeling great. Acclimatizing in just 3 days to go above 5000m was the goal. But unfortunately Cotopaxi was also a goal. At around 5700m it was time to turnaround. Between the wind and a newly experienced sense of tiredness, Cotopaxi will have to wait.
Of course this is disappointing. Could I have pushed the last 200 vertical meters?, how dangerous would the last traverses really be with the wind?. I´ll never know for sure. But I will be back to avenge.

sP

Ecuador acclimatization day 1 complete (Rucu Pinchincha round 2)

2009-09-04T14:48:00.000-07:00

Just finished hiking Rucu Pinchinca. Went to 4700m. Felt good all day, but a bit tired. Tomorrow I´ll try 5100m on Illanizas North.
Back in Quito now, going to rest for tomorrow.
sP

Ecuador trip

2009-08-22T16:19:00.000-07:00

Since I'll be leaving Houston Sept. 3 and trying to summit Cotopaxi Sept. 6, there's not a lot of time for acclimatization. However with the availability of good day hiking and lesser challenging volcanoes around Quito, I can maximize the days between to acclimatize. First on Sept. 4 Rucu Pinchincha (a relatively easy day hike/scrample) then on Sept. 5 Ilinizas North (a good climb to > 5000m). Then, depeding on how I feel at that point, a Cotopaxi summit attempt can be made around midnight Sept. 6.
sP

Mt. Indefatigable round 2

2009-07-12T22:25:00.000-07:00

Had a great weekend hiking in the Kananaskis. Still had the North summit of Indefatigable on the to-do list from last time. Started with a South summit then traversed to the North. Great day, great weather. Missing Calgary and the Kananaskis all over agin.
Thanks to Steffen for the photos.
sP

Return from Rainier

2009-07-03T22:05:00.000-07:00

Back in Houston now. The Rainier trip was excellent! A great combination of learning new skills, climbing activities, and working as a team with new friends. We hit the summit of 14410' at 08:00 (mountain time) 01-July-09.
Here is a summit photo of myself and Luke (former professional bull rider now turned climber). I'll always give credit were credit is due, he handled the climb well despite never being near 14,000' feet before.

A few other pics here, our camp on the Winthrop Glacier and the summit view from it.
Rainier really impressed me. Both esthetically and the technical
challenges involved. Its definitely a place to visit and climb again.
A real gem of the west coast.
Once again thanks to everyone who donated to the Alberta Children's hospital prior to this climb. You contribution is greatly appreciated. sP

Departure for Rainier

2009-06-23T20:08:00.000-07:00

Ready to go. Flight to Seattle in the morning. Should be on the mountain by Thursday.
Special thanks again to everyone who contributed to the Alberta Children's hospital. By the way, I know the pictures not that exciting, but its getting late.
sP

Rainier prep

2009-06-16T21:07:00.000-07:00

Nearly ready to leave for Rainier. Gear it set. Perhaps one of the hardest things is to decide what to eat for 8 days. Here's my selection of oatmeal, bars, dried fruit, tea, jerky, etc.
sP

Cotopaxi in planning

2009-06-09T18:35:00.000-07:00

Found a good price for a ticket to Ecuador. Looks like I'll be going in Sept. as planned.
It's going to be hard to attempt Cotopaxi two days after arriving from Sea level. We'll see how the Hypoxic training works.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotopaxi

sP

Projects time line

2009-06-04T21:21:00.000-07:00

Goals, gotta have em.

If your not moving forward toward them...

I've set this time line in order to organize a few larger and more challenging goals. Maybe they'll change, maybe they can't all be met. Regardless, I found just defining and starting them was the first goal to meet.
sP

Canada - Canmore Lady McDonald trail - Apr. 2009

2009-05-30T22:18:00.000-07:00

One of Canmore's classic hikes. Some scrambling at the top but makes a good day trip.

Texas - Enchanted Rock - Nov. 2008

2009-05-30T22:16:00.000-07:00

Since I've been training at the indoor rock gym, thought it was about time to give the outdoors a try. After all, those are the fundamentals one will need to alpine climb. Went to a local place called Enchanted Rock. Great camping and a mix of climbing options. We spent two days learning and practicing.
Since this trip I've been working on lead climbing, setting anchors, and hope to move into mult-pitch. Let me know if you ever want to go one weekend.

Colorado - Pikes Peak - Sept. 2008

2009-05-30T22:13:00.000-07:00

Simply expecting it to be a nice day hike, I quickly came to realized the 12mi hike to the summit of Pike's Peak is no joke.
Hardly flat at any point it made for a long day.

Canada - Kananaskis - Mt. Indefatigable

2009-05-30T22:11:00.000-07:00

One of the many great day hikes in the Kananaskis country. Enjoyed the scrambling. Also shared the summit with my sister. On this day she promised to join me on Aconcagua. Still working on that one.

Kilimanjaro - June 2008

2009-05-30T22:07:00.000-07:00

What a birthday present. Kilimanjaro was the turning point. Going to +5800m and still feeling great was when I really starting thinking about learning how to climb real mountains. Of course there is still a lot to learn. This trip was great on so many levels. It really is a trek that
everyone should experience.

Alaska - Flat Top Mt. - May 2008

2009-05-30T22:02:00.000-07:00

Although still snowing in May, my first visit to Anchorage Alaska was memorable. Being able to hike until 11:00 PM is great. Flat Top Mountain, just outside of Anchorage, is a relatively short and low trip but fun regardless.

Peru - Lares Trek - March 2008

2009-05-30T21:54:00.000-07:00

Peru and Macchu Pichu are so amazing I had to go back. This time taking an alternate route called the Lares Trek. Less crowded and higher at the summit point, it was a good choice. If possible I would go to Macchu Pichu every year.

Peru - Inka Trail Dec. 2004

2009-05-30T21:40:00.000-07:00

My first taste of >4000m hiking. I was hooked but quickly realized that carrying around 225 lbs. was not the way to go