Ecuador 2010 - day 5-6 Cotopaxi

Although I had originally planned Cotopaxi for Sept. 8-9, I met a group going a day earlier. Joined them and went directly to the refuge on Sept. 7. Climbed leaving 1am Wed. Sept. 8, summited around 7am. This one was especially great since I had attempted Cotopaxi last year but was unsuccesful. It was challenging and rewarding. Unfortunately the weather, much like Denali, was horrible at the top. Couldn´t even see the crator. In fact this was the coldest-windiest summit of the year. Great trip, will try to rest tomorrow, still have plans for Chimborazo on Friday.

sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 4

Went to the summit of Illinizas N. today. 5126m. Its nice to be able to park at 3900m. Moving 1200m vertical meters relatively quickly made it to the top in 3:20. +/- 2 hrs. less than last year. Interesting was the snow conditions today vs. the bare rock scramble of last year. This time was more fun. Rest day tomorrow, right on track for Cotopaxi on the 8th.

sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 2

Went to the top of Volcano Rucu Pinchincha today. at 4784m it was great for aclimatization. at 3 hrs. for the hike up and down I was happy, since the guide books call for anywhere from 5 hrs. and last year I did the same route in about 4 hrs. Reasonable weather but cloudy just as everytime I've been there. Taking it easy in Quito tomorrow, then off to Illanizas Norte to go above 5000m.
sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 1

Arrived in Quito last night. Its good to be at altitude again. Took the Teleferico to 4000m. There is a great view of Quito from there. then had a nice hike to 4500m. To the base of tomorrows scrambling. I´ll try to hike/scramble up Rucu Pinchincha tomorrow, will be nice for acclimatization.
sP

To Ecuador

Tomorrow I'll leave for Quito. Situated at a nice 2850m asl. it's the perfect start to a 9 day climbing trip. Similar to last year's visit, I'll use some of the local volcanoes to acclimatize. I'm now focused on trying Cotopaxi again, then if all goes well Chimborazo. Above is the plan. I'll try to update when possible. sP

Climbing timeline updated

Updated the time line. Still working on what is next. Trying to decide between Peru and Asia. Hopefully I'll have the chance to spend some time in Ecuador (Sept.) for training.
sP

Return from Denali

Well, the Denali trip is now over. Came down from the mountain June 4. Spent the evening in Talkeetna (nice town by the way), then returned to Houston June 5. This trip, like others, was a great experience.
Although it wasn't the highest altitude I've been it presented new challenges. First time for spending 20 days on a mountain, first time traveling on fixed lines, and first time setting up snow/ice camps building walls, kitchens, etc. Since the actual climbing days were probably only about half of the total it was challenging to stay healthy, motivated, and upbeat during weather and rest days.

We made the summit push on June 1 topping out at 18:10. Great feeling as always. Unfortunately the weather wasn't perfect. Not much of a view but exhilarating non the less.

While on the mountain I spent a lot of time thinking about home and how to proceed with work, training, life in general. Now at home I'm thinking heavily about the next training trips and then the next big expedition. Ecuador is in the plans for training and perhaps Peru next year to finally go for Alpamayo and Huascaran. or maybe it's time to go for the big 8000m? We'll see.

Also, we were able to collectively contribute $2,550 toward the Texas Children's Hospital fund raising. Thanks everyone for their support and contributions.

A few pics and video from the amazing Mt. McKinley (Denali) trip

Sweet view while flying in to the Kahiltna Glacier


Climbing up Squirrel Point - fun with full sleds

View of Mt. Foraker - Intimidating since it's rarely climbed


14,200' camp


Climbing the fixed lines up to 16,200' for a cache site


Climbing the ridge between 16,200' and 17,200' high camp


Summit