Cho Oyu update

Attached is the climbing day by day chart which was to be used in April. I'll be updating soon with one for Aug. Hopefully this still allows to summit within 40 days. As usual may fluctuate, but good to have a plan.

I'm scheduled to leave Houston ---> Newark ---> Delhi India ---> Kathmandu on Aug 19. A long trip but at least there is an overnight in Delhi.

Cho Oyu is the sixth highest peak in the world. Said to be a good introduction climbing into the 8000m world. There are only 14 mountains in the world above 8000m.











I've started organizing and preparing equipment.
Training is going well.

sP

Ecuador May, 2011 - Cayambe

Just returned from today´s climb - Cayambe. At 5790m it is Ecuador´s third highest.
Just getting to the refuge is interesting. it´s about 45min to 1 hr. to the town of Cayambe from Quito. Then about 2 hrs. to the refuge which you must endure the less than idea road conditions. a 4 x 4 vehicle is mandatory. But an interesting trip traveling through the indigenous farmlands. Amazing green with the massive presence of Cayambe moutain.

We left the refuge around 1 am, at the summit by 6:30
The climb was moderate to start then became more difficult toward the last few hundred meters navigating around crevasses and during some steeper sections.
Once again bad luck at a foggy summit. Couldn´t see much until going down when everything cleared. At that time beautiful scenery including Antisana and Cotopaxi.
Another great climb on one of Ecuador´s amazing volcanoes.

Ecuador May, 2011 - Ilinizas N.

Climbed Ilinizas N. today. This was the third time to summit this peak, but first with good weather. Blue sky and sun. Had amazing views of Cotopaxi and Ilinizas South. It was nice to go above 5000m. Enjoyable day.
Looking forward to a rest day tomorrow.

Ecuador May, 2011 - Second Acclimatization hike complete

Had a good day scrambling up Rumiñaui today. It was actually more of a scramble than I thought by taking the direct South summit route. Weather was ok until a storm rolled in behind us during the descent. completely covered the peak we had just climbed with white.
On to Illinizas N. tomorrow.

Ecuador May, 2011 - First Acclimatization hike complete

Went to Rucu Pinchincha once again for yestarday´s acclimatization hike.
This is the third time I´ve been to the 4696m / 150273 ft. summit. It´s great to get out of the city and enjoy the day on this easy going hike. There is a bit of scrambling toward the summit which adds fun. Total round trip of 5 hrs. Weather was ok, a lot of fog and a bit of rain.

The spot device seems to be working well here. you can view the tracking at:
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0oAWHSW9x7nDQjqA7MQI2xn4QqZEJiRqV

Planning to go on another hike tomorrow (Rumiñaui, another just for acclimatizing).
This should keep me right on schedule to climb Illianizas N. on Tuesday.

More Ecuador Climbing May 12, 2011

Plans for Ecuador this May are now in place. This will be the third trip to this great country to enjoy some of the volcano climbing it has to offer. There are 10 mountains in Ecuador above 5000m (16,400'). To date I've climbing 3 of them and plan to try two new ones on this trip. It's an excellent place to sharpen skills and gain some altitude training for the upcoming Cho Oyu trip.

The acclimatization program will be similar to before. Enjoying the high altitude city of Quito, hiking Rucu Pinchincha and climbing Illinizas Norte for the 3rd time.
New challenges include Cayambe and Antisana.
Antisana is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in Ecuador with amazing views of surrounding volcanoes.
As an alternate Illianizas Sur is still on the list and could be substituted if required.

The Plan:















Cayambe (5790m)
















Antisana (5753m)

Cho Oyu Update - now Aug/Sept. 2011

Well, slight changes. Turns out there may be potential ravel and permit issues brewing in Tibet during the April/May climbing season.

Read more here:
Tibet Travel advisory

So, we have now planned to adjust by re-scheduling for what seems to be a much more solid change of acquiring permits and climbing during the August/September season.

A bit of a downer as the preparation for April was going so well. Regardless the training will continue and I'll be even that much more prepared in the fall.

Attached is the climbing day by day chart which was to be used in April. I'll be updating soon with one for Aug. Hopefully this still allows to summit within 40 days. As usual may fluctuate, but good to have a plan.

I'm scheduled to leave Houston ---> Newark ---> Delhi India ---> Kathmandu on Aug 19. A long trip but at least there is an overnight in Delhi.

Cho Oyu is the sixth highest peak in the world. Said to be a good introduction climbing into the 8000m world. There are only 14 mountains in the world above 8000m.











I'll be spending the next months preparing equipment and training. Feeling really good about the training right now. Will be increasing the intensity. can't wait!
sP