Cho Oyu Update - now Aug/Sept. 2011

Well, slight changes. Turns out there may be potential ravel and permit issues brewing in Tibet during the April/May climbing season.

Read more here:
Tibet Travel advisory

So, we have now planned to adjust by re-scheduling for what seems to be a much more solid change of acquiring permits and climbing during the August/September season.

A bit of a downer as the preparation for April was going so well. Regardless the training will continue and I'll be even that much more prepared in the fall.

Attached is the climbing day by day chart which was to be used in April. I'll be updating soon with one for Aug. Hopefully this still allows to summit within 40 days. As usual may fluctuate, but good to have a plan.

I'm scheduled to leave Houston ---> Newark ---> Delhi India ---> Kathmandu on Aug 19. A long trip but at least there is an overnight in Delhi.

Cho Oyu is the sixth highest peak in the world. Said to be a good introduction climbing into the 8000m world. There are only 14 mountains in the world above 8000m.











I'll be spending the next months preparing equipment and training. Feeling really good about the training right now. Will be increasing the intensity. can't wait!
sP

Climbing timeline updated

Updated today 11-Oct-10
Looking toward confirming Cho Oyu for April, 2011
sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 8-9 - Chimborazo

Coming off of a great ascent of Cotopaxi I was still able to squeeze in a trip to Chimborazo. At 6,310 metres (20,702 ft) It's the highest mountain in Ecuador and makes for a challenging climb. Leaving from the Whymper refuge located at 5000m we set out for the summit at 12:00am. Going for the north summit of 6,310m that means an altitude incrase of 1300m in one push. In my opinion at the limit of what one should do at this height. Climbing entirely in the dark we reached the summit in 6 hrs. Almost to the exact moment arriving on the summit the sun was rising. This allowed for amazing views of nearly all of Ecuadors large volcanoes. The weather throught the climb was perfect. Almost no wind, no less than 10 below C, and clear. The climb was great until the descent. Climbing the 1300m was tough enough, but what made it more challenging was the relentless incline. Once on the snow line above the ridge the incline seemed to go forever without any rest areas. The only break was after hitting the South summit you must go down slightly before meeting another steep pitch to the true summit (Whymper). However this wasn´t really easy due to breaking trail in fresh snow. I can realistically say it was the toughest single push I've done. Then going down, using nearly all my energy just to summit I had a tough time returning to the refuge. it took nearly 2.5 hrs. Longer than expected. I haven´t felt exhaustion like that on any previous descent. Regardless it was an amazing expierience to climb a beast of a mountain. Another great gem of Ecuador.
sP









View of Chimborazo. This was after the climb. I'll update later with our route details.










View of the Western face we climbed. If you look closely, centre-right, you can see our tracks (used up and down).










Exhausted on the summit. Cotopaxi seen in the background on the left.









Shadow cast by Chimborazo at sunrise. I had previously seen a picture just like this on Wikipedia. It was incredible to see with my own eyes.

Ecuador 2010 - day 5-6 Cotopaxi

Although I had originally planned Cotopaxi for Sept. 8-9, I met a group going a day earlier. Joined them and went directly to the refuge on Sept. 7. Climbed leaving 1am Wed. Sept. 8, summited around 7am. This one was especially great since I had attempted Cotopaxi last year but was unsuccesful. It was challenging and rewarding. Unfortunately the weather, much like Denali, was horrible at the top. Couldn´t even see the crator. In fact this was the coldest-windiest summit of the year. Great trip, will try to rest tomorrow, still have plans for Chimborazo on Friday.

sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 4

Went to the summit of Illinizas N. today. 5126m. Its nice to be able to park at 3900m. Moving 1200m vertical meters relatively quickly made it to the top in 3:20. +/- 2 hrs. less than last year. Interesting was the snow conditions today vs. the bare rock scramble of last year. This time was more fun. Rest day tomorrow, right on track for Cotopaxi on the 8th.

sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 2

Went to the top of Volcano Rucu Pinchincha today. at 4784m it was great for aclimatization. at 3 hrs. for the hike up and down I was happy, since the guide books call for anywhere from 5 hrs. and last year I did the same route in about 4 hrs. Reasonable weather but cloudy just as everytime I've been there. Taking it easy in Quito tomorrow, then off to Illanizas Norte to go above 5000m.
sP

Ecuador 2010 - day 1

Arrived in Quito last night. Its good to be at altitude again. Took the Teleferico to 4000m. There is a great view of Quito from there. then had a nice hike to 4500m. To the base of tomorrows scrambling. I´ll try to hike/scramble up Rucu Pinchincha tomorrow, will be nice for acclimatization.
sP