Manaslu 2012 closure

Now home from the Manaslu expedition I have a chance to put a few words and pictures to the blog.
I'll keep it relatively straight forward and short as the trip ultimately had a poor outcome.

To be honest, once again the experience was great.  The culture of Nepal, the approach through the jungle, and the amazing views high on the worlds 8th highest peak. Until a quick turning point.

Despite everything going as well as possible personally (health, condition, motivation) and for our team, on 23-Sept-12 disaster struck the mountain.  An avalanche fell just before 5a.m. devastating everything in it's path.  Most unfortunately camp 3 which was heavily populated with persons.  We were resting at camp 2.  The most impact to us was heavy wind, some debris, and a concussion to one of team member.
That day several persons lost there life.  I can only wish the best to their families and loved ones they left behind.

http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/11-Dead-or-Missing-Scores-Injured-in-Manaslu-Avalanche.html

Our team left the mountain.  This based on a mixture of the event, respect for those impacted, and the questionable mountain conditions up high.

A few teams have since summitted.  I congratulate them on their success. Parts of me wish I was there however that isn't overruled by how thankful I am to be here, safe at home, with those I love.

Thanks once again for everyone's support.
There are many projects still to come. For now I'm looking forward to a winter of ice climbing in Canada and my annual trip to South American in the spring.
sP
 

Shawn's Expedition cancelled and Final Entry

After all that has happened, the IMG team has decided to not continue the expedition. Shawn is very disappointed, but I'm glad that he's coming back home safe and sound. His tent was hit by snow/wind after all and as it bore down on Shawn's and his partner's tent, they pushed against the ceiling with their feet. I'm so proud of Shawn and all he's accomplished, I know God was protecting him and I can't wait to give him a big hug when I see him!!

His wife,

Miluska

Avalanche update!!!!

Kathmandu, Nepal (CNN) -- At least 11 climbers were killed in an avalanche Sunday morning on Manaslu, the world's eighth-highest peak, a pilot who took part in the rescue effort said.

Steve Bruce Bokan of Fishtail Air also said that those coordinating the rescue report as many as 38 people missing.

He said there were reports that an entire camp was swept away by the avalanche, which took place Sunday at about 5 a.m. local time.

Avalanche

There was an avalanche that killed 7 people in Manaslu today from camp 3, Shawn was in camp 2 and is ok, thank God. Sherpas from his team are aiding in the recovery effort of survivors.

Below picture of Shawn right before Avalanche.

Weather has finally cleared!!!

IMG leader Mike Hamill reported by sat phone that the team took a good hike today to get the cobwebs worked out from their storm days.  A number of teams did move up to Camp 1 today, and some sherpas from another team reached Camp 2 and report that the tents and gear up there are all OK.   Good news.  Now the weather is looking much better and the team members are doing well.  Their plan is to move up in the morning to Camp 1, then go to Camp 2 the following day, with the ultimate goal of this rotation to reach Camp 3. See Shawn below!!

Photos from snowed-in Base Camp

     

SHAWN HAS BEEN STUCK IN BC DUE TO WEATHER FOR THE 4TH DAY NOW, STILL ON TRACK THOUGH SINCE THEY GOT THERE EARLIER. ALL UP TO THE WEATHER!!

Weather has caused Shawn to be stuck at base camp

For 4 days now. They're still on track because they got there earlier. He's doing good, just a little bored. I miss him (hey, I'm blogging for him, so I can write this:)

Rotations

After 3 rotations of hiking towards Camp 1, Shawn will rest for 2 days and then do another 3 rotations ending up in Camp 2.

Shawn has made it to 18,000 feet!

...and came back down to about 15k after acclimatizing. He feels good and is in good spirits!

Shawn made it to Base Camp!

Shawn has made it to Deng camp

After a week of trekking, Shawn has made it to Deng campsite. They are on track and doing well. Shawn sends his greetings to everyone!

Porters preparing food/supplies

Porters preparing food/supplies for the trip to basecamp. Some things already went. This is only the second load. 

Arrival at Arugaht

We just completed the 10 hr. bus ride from Kathmandu to Arugaht (the star of our trekking).

Shawn's update

Porters preparing food/supplies for the trip to basecamp. Some things already went. This is only the second load. 

Shawn's update from the Himalayas

Porters preparing food/supplies for the trip to basecamp. Some things already went. This is only the second load. 

Leaving for Arughat

Shawn just completed the 10 hr. bus ride from Kathmandu to Arugaht (the start of his trekking).

Kathmandu arrival

Now in the hustlin city of Kathmandu, Nepal.
Pretty much the same as last year. Time to walk around tomorrow.
Plan to leave the city on Tues. 28-Aug-12.
Sp

To Kathmandu

All packed and ready.

Gear totaling 130 lbs. nicely packed into 3 duffles.  Probably the first and last time of the trip they will be nicely packed.

In a few hrs. the long travel to Kathmandu begins.  Should be arriving on Sunday.

I'll test the spot tracker there.  You can always view the last 7 days of activity by clicking here. Or always on the right side of this page - SPOT icon.

I'll update when in Nepal.  Milu will be adding posts when possible from there.
sp 

Manaslu climbing plan - so far

Below is a very rough plan of how we may approach and climb Manaslu.

This will definately change pending weather, conditions, etc.

sp

Manalsu in August

We've now officially changed the original plan of attempting Cho Oyu (for the second time) to Manalsu.  Mainly due to uncertainty in obtaining a permit to climb in Tibet.

Manalsu, the worlds eighth height is climbing from Nepal and should be an equally exciting challenge.  Similar mountains in height and difficulty.  However for Manalsu we plan to trek in for about 5-7 days.  This will be great to see other parts of Nepal.

Equipment is nearly ready and departure is set for 24-Aug-12















http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manaslu

Chimborazo Summit

This morning Steve and I stood on top of the 6300m Chimborazo summit. The highest in Ecuador.
Unfortunately Alex and Billy couldnt join for the climb as they were both fighting flu like symtoms from the day before. However they were troopers by joining us at the 5000m refuge and supporting from there.
It was a tough climb. Depite being on Chimborazo before, I guess I didnt recall just how long and tough the West flank push really is. About 4 hrs. of relentless steep climbing put us both to the test. Regarless it was a great day with amazing weather and views from the top. We reached the Whymper summit at 5:55. Less than 6 hrs. from leaving the refuge.
sp


The massive Chimborazo 6300m, 20,300ft.


Our route straight up the West Flank


On the summit

Cotopaxi summit

Yestarday between 5:30 - 6:00 and before the sun was even up, we all stood on top of Cotopaxi. At 5897m it was a tough climb as always. It actually never seems to get easier. This year the route appears to have even more steep sections and a very large crevased area to pass directly through. Although this section was a bit hair raising it had some of the most amazing view of crevases and ice formation I have ever seen. Another bonus was a clear view of the amazing 800m wide crater. Still active and smoking.

Awsome job to Alex and Billy who reach their new highest point PR. Sherpa Steve was also as strong as ever leading the way to a speeding ascent just over 4 hrs.
Everyone is feeling good today. Our trip to Chimborazo, Ecuadors highest, begins tomorrow.
sp


The amazing Cotopaxi Volcano


Crater view from the summit (800m wide x 200m deep)


On the summit


On the way down


Alex, Billy, me, and Steve after the climb

Storm on Illinizas

We started off great on Illinizas N. today. moving fast and feeling good we stopped around 4900m to take in the view (although foggy) and have a drink. After moving for about 5 min. a strange pulse came over my head. It felt like a wave of energy all the way through my forhead and down to my neck. At first thinking something was wrong with me I stopped. Within what felt like 2 sec. later a huge boom of thunder shook us all. We looked at eachother and realized an electrical storm was near. Strange things started. Hair was standing on end, static was building up in our hiking poles, and it was time to move. now running down we bolted (no pun intended). As I caught up to Steve I heard a very noticable buzzing. I thought is was my mp3 player. Asking him if he heard it I took out my earbuds. Billy came behind me, he heard it clearly. It was the rocks buzzing with static due to the ferrous material within them. Now we were scared. taking an alternate gully than our up route we literally ran down, throwing poles as we couldnt hang on to them when the static built up. dropping to the ground each time we felt the electricity and heard the thunder. Finally we made it safely to the refuge for relief after our ordeal.
We are all back safe now at Pappagayo. Unfortunately we didnt summit, but did get high enough for acclimatizing in order to go for Cotopaxi on Tuesday.
sp

Our view going up Illinizas N. just before the storm

First days in Ecuador

Alex, Billy, Steve, and I are now settled in at Pappagoyo. Our hub for the next climbs. We had a great time in Quito. Especialy an acclimatization hike on Rucu Pinchincha. about a 6.5 hr. round trip by taking the direct route up and the normal route down. Pretty easy going however the paso de la muerte (pass of death) was a bit sketchy but fun. Everyone is acclimatizing well and we are set for Illinizas N. tomorrow.
sp

Rucu Pinchincha during the approach


Paso de la Muerte while clear


Paso de la Muerte while the fog rolled in


I was the lucky one leading over the pass


Alex crossing the pass