Thursday, April 25, 2013

Ecuador 2013 - Two days on the Illinizas

It's been a tough but rewarding two days on the Illinizas mountains. 
Yesterday we set out early for an acclimatization scramble of illinizas Norte (5126m).  Unlike last year the weather was perfect.  In fact this was my fourth time to this peak and had never seen such a clear day.  From the early parts we started to see the emerging peaks of Cayambe, Antisana, and Cotopaxi.
From the summit we could see nearly all Volcanoes of Ecuador.  Amazing.
After a nice view from the summit we returned to the refugio for dinner and a few hrs. sleep prior to departure for the South peak.

Illinizas Sur (5276m) is considered one of the most technical mountains in Ecuador.  I first laid eyes on it over 4 years ago and was captivated by it's mass and beauty which is overwhelming when you see it from the North summit. Looking at it from our point of view on the North summit we could immediately see it was going to be steep.  In addition a traverse under potential rock fall hazard wasn't ideal.

We set out around 3:00 am this morning.  arriving to the glacier around a hr. later we started up the 60 degree slopes.  Some of the steepest climbing I've seen here. Definitely not a moderate climb.
the first of us arrived on the summit at 6:00 then the others just before 7:00.  A few quick photos and a brief moment to take in the view was all that most of us wanted.  It was an exhausting climb and the descent was still to come.

A few hrs. down and back to the refugio for re-hydration then back down the long trail to the car.
Also on the way down we caught up with Steve who was coming up to climb the North peak as he just arrive to Ecuador.  Now our team is complete.

For me personally the South summit climb was a 4 yr. goal.  For Marcus and Scott it was also definitely a significant accomplishment well earned. 

tomorrow we rest.  Then on to Cotopaxi.


View of the Illinizas.  Sur on left, Norte on right


 Approach to Illinizas Refugio

 
Summit of Illinizas Norte with a great view of the Sur summit behind

 
Summit of Illinizas Sur with a veiw of Antisana and Cotopaxi in background

 
Descent of Illinizas Sur

 
Our next climb - Cotopaxi

 

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